A Summertime Farewell

Peach Crostata at Poogan's Porch will be my celebratory good bye to summer.

Charleston remains one of our country’s most captivating cities. I’m an impossible Southern romantic and hopeless lover of history who drifted into the city’s magical spell several decades ago.

The vibe in the city ebbs and flows with the tides. Awakening in the French Quarter to stone-ground grits and baked ham with buttermilk biscuits is what dreams are made of. A walk down Church Street and over to Legare reveals secret sea-scented gardens and elegant verandas cooled by centuries of river breezes offering respite from the mid-day heat.

After a morning of exploration, I like to head over to Poogan’s Porch on Queen Street for their unforgettable peach crostata. While sitting on the porch one can still catch a glimpse of cherished traditions; white-gloved ladies and men in seersucker suits with charming bow ties uphold the ways of a gentler era.

Hospitality thrives along these hallowed streets as history echoes through 18th-century homes. Aside from its charm, a dynamic food scene reflects its English, French, and West African roots. It’s undeniable. In Charleston, a white chef’s coat has some real cache.

Poogan’s Porch has some mighty fine Peach Crostata that will always bring you back.

Their recipe comes from Frank Stitt’s Southern Table, one of my favorite cookbooks filled with stories and recipes from Highlands Bar and Grill in Birmingham. The recipe yields enough dough for two crusts that freeze well if you need one later.

Preparing a crostata is appealing because its perfection lies in its imperfection.

Whereas cracked crusts are seen as major cosmetic flaws on a pie, when it comes to crostatas, they’re essential for achieving a perfectly rustic product. Best of all, you simply need a baking sheet and your trusty rolling pin - that’s it!

I found some wonderful South Carolina peaches out on St. Helena Island, perfect for my Crostada.

I live minutes from farm country, which means peaches are abundant. We can’t grow them on the coast, but farmers get them from upstate and bring them to us.

Peaches constantly line my kitchen counter and they are best eaten standing up with their drippy, delightful messiness. This Crostada was a snap to make and always feels like a celebration with its buttery crust.

Peach Crostada

For the Dough:

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 1/4 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 -inch cubes and chilled

1/4 cup ice water

For the filling:

1/4 cup sugar

4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter

2 pounds ripe peaches, pitted, peeled, and sliced into 3/4 inch thick wedges

1 large egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon heavy cream for egg wash

1 tablespoon coarse for topping

To prepare the dough, combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse a few times to blend. Add the butter and pulse until it is the size of small peas, about 15 times. With the processor running, add the ice water and process for about 10 seconds; stop the processor before the dough comes together. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of waxed paper, divide the dough in half, and shape it into two disks. Wrap them in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Roll one disk of dough into an 11-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Transfer to a baking sheet. Reserve the second disk for another use.

To prepare the filling, combine the flour and sugar in a small bowl. Blend in butter with two knives until the mixture resembles a coarse meal.

Place peaches in the center of the dough circle on a baking sheet and top with the butter-sugar mixture. Begin draping the edges up and over, forming 3 pleats. Crimp the pleats and press down to seal. Brush the pastry with the egg wash and sprinkle with sugar.

Bake the tart for about 25 minutes or until golden brown. Cook on a rack until ready to bite into its dreamy, delicious buttery crust. Enjoy!