The Search for the Perfect Shrimp Burger

Get ready - shrimp season is about to open in the Lowcountry.

It’s a quirky, irresistible, little-known, beyond our coast kind of burger.

I’ve discovered them in nostalgic cinderblock seafood joints, drive-ins, and restaurants around the shore from Folly Beach to Pawley’s Island and Savannah. Just roll your windows down, inhale deeply, and if you smell some stinky pluff mud, a tasty shrimp burger cannot be far away. They are little shellfish burgers that are big on flavor, mostly made with a heap of fried shrimp, a dollop of tartar sauce, a little mound of slaw, and a squiggle of ketchup on a steamed bun - legendary in the Lowcountry of SC.

I’ve enjoyed stopping by Hilda Upton’s Shrimp Shack on St. Helena Island for many years. They’ve been serving their shrimp burgers since it opened in 1978, a laid-back eatery on the road leading from Beaufort to the Atlantic and a favorite of beach-going families and hungry boaters. If I get there in time, I can stand outside with a burger in one hand and sweet tea in the other and watch the shrimp boats, their outriggers folded up, heading back home to the Gay Seafood Company, trailed by the ever-present flock of seagulls. Here is where cars consistently fill the sand-covered parking lot to get a taste of Hilda’s mouth-watering shrimp burgers fresh off the docks. (Her recipe below)

No Carbs in this one!

If you travel up the coast to North Carolina, you might discover them in places that serve them with blackened shrimp and a fried green tomato. Sometimes the shrimp are chopped raw and ground with scallions, mayonnaise, and cayenne and served in a lettuce wrap.

Some chefs add breadcrumbs, garlic, and eggs and fry ‘em up crispy. While visiting Wilmington, I discovered a fried shrimp sandwich with aioli and pickles on a griddled bun. Some folks hit it with a dash of hot sauce for a little zing. Fantastic.

My all-time favorite perfect shrimp burger - drum roll, please - Little Jack’s Tavern in Charleston. It’s not deep fried and it’s not fussy, but just right.

I love that it’s not breaded, and the taste of local shrimp shines through. It’s texturally interesting and dressed up with herbs and onion, served on a brioche bun, topped with lettuce, tomato, herby mayonnaise, and a side of ketchup. (photo at top of page)

Tides of Tradition

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